Brief "still alive" update; I know I don't do this "blog" thing very well, I don't have enough to really say to put it into a post, so it spends most of its time idle.
Still here. Still working. Still hopeless at everything. The usual. Still not managed to save the money to actually do my driver training...
Progress has slowed significantly with the arrival of winter. Hard to get the enthusiasm to do much when it's raining sideways, freezing cold, and dark by 1700h.
Barely touched them since the last post; I fitted some replacement headlights that take H4 bulbs, replacing the old sealed beams. They were wired up -- including the main-beam switch and warning --, and work quite nicely.
Furthermore, I've also got the panel illumination connected up, and working when I turn the lighting switch to sidelights. (Though I did have a period of time when I was chasing around trying to figure out why they wouldn't work; and it turns out I connected panel illumination to be supplied when the ignition is on.)
Bodywork & Fittings
Tank was cleaned, primed, and painted with black Tractol. Same with the tank-straps. The tank is now mounted onto the side of the truck, with the fuel pump mounted to the back of the tank-strap; neatly reducing the sketch factor.
The level sender is playing silly-buggers, though; and I need to sort out a fuel cap (Ideally, I'd like to put the original one back on, but we'll see.)
Rust has been cut out of the roof, and more metal has been added back in, in its place. One of the cab body mounts has delaminated, and this lets the cab tilt over alarmingly (Which one of my co-workers discovered, to the cost of his iPhone); so that needs to be sorted... but before that, I need to get some metal box section for the cross-members that actually hold the cab to the truck.
This would be easier if I could take the cab off and work on it; but that's not really an option I have.
After some back and forth with HTS (and their supplier), I now have a new (and freshly resealed) master cylinder!
Moving on to the brakes at the wheel, and the hub definitely does have to come off to sort them out. The drum comes off from the hub in the expected manner, but because of the PCD of the wheel-studs, the hub covers most of the brakes from the side.
So the hub has to come off, and I have to make a socket to be able to do that properly; as well as get some axle-seals and so-forth, so I can replace that while I'm in there.