Charlie's Echo (3)

Filed under: truck by tamber
21 July 2019 @ 23:32

After the disaster that was starting the truck to get it out of the workshop, using a bit of steel bar to bridge the contacts on the starter switch, I decided that maybe it was time to start doing some of the re-wiring. This is part of why there are some real janky bits -- or, at least, parts that I would do very differently now -- in the new(er) wiring; it wasn't done properly start to finish, it just sorta grew in place, most important stuff first. But, that's why I got this truck; it's a bit of a playground and learning experience. :D

Starting with, appropriately enough, the starter wiring (Some of which now has to change again, because of later additions; namely the brown wires that are the B+ from the alternator, which now need to be extended to be on the other side of the isolator switch that I now have. :) ):

A photograph of a very rusty truck engine and cab floor, with
some messy wiring hastily added to a new starter solenoid bolted to
some sheet metal.

Noice!

A photograph of the truck's instrument panel, close-up on the
combined fuel gauge/water temp gauge showing the oil pressure warning
and the charging warning lights illuminated.

At this point, it's early May 2016, and I was deciding to get stuck back into the brakes. This time, wheel cylinders. The fronts in particular, because the backs are a little scary. That meant taking the wheels off, and oh boy...

I've managed to have all of the front offside nuts off one by one, and went to start on the other side. (Plan being to clean the threads off with a wire wheel, and make sure I could actually remove them easily when it came to jacking that corner up and removing the wheel & brakes.)

I've twisted the old wheel-nut bar thing a good 1/8 of a turn as well as bending it. (And yes, I was aware they're left-hand thread... :D) Got two of them broken loose; but the rest are incredibly tight. I resorted to desperate measures after reminding myself that my 3/4" drive impact isn't really strong enough, and managed to warp my 3/4"F-1"M adapter into another dimension by trying to use the truck's weight to loosen them off.

(Breaker bar, adapter, socket; brace the breaker bar against the floor, and drive the truck forward... there was a lurch, followed by a clang. The breaker bar is undamaged, the socket was still on the wheel-nut, and the adapter has gone. sigh)

Never did find that socket adapter. >:(

I did, however, find out that my truck is a little bit special!

Screenshot from the Army manual for the truck, reading: 1. A
quantity of Cargo vehicles have been converted to the Field Arty. role
(Fig 1, 2 and 3); the conversion was effected by REME. The chassis
detail remains unchanged.  2. A locking device is fitted to the cab
left hand door, to lock the door in the open position. A handle grip
is provided above the [left hand] door. The towing attachment bracket
has been strengthened and, additionally, the height of the towing hook
has been reduced to give a much lower towing height.

That's right, it's a REME conversion to a Field Artillery Tractor; which would've then spent its life towing something like a 25pdr field gun, probably for an artillery training school. Who knows! I certainly don't, yet. :D

About a month later, I finally got help getting the wheel-nuts loose, by way of a tame tyre man who had come in to change some wheels over for a customer's truck; he cracked 'em loose with the 1" gun (Which struggled ??? ), for the princely sum of... getting to sit in the truck while it burbled away, and getting some photos.

Work also continued on the new fuse & relay panel -- which is, really, more my field of work (Though, again, there's stuff I'd like to do differently now.) -- which unfortunately included melting one of the little plastic-mounted bus-bars because I was overenthusiastic with the TIG welder. :D

A photograph of an aluminium panel with wires, fuse-holders, and
power distribution bars bolted to it. A hand is holding a very melted
plastic base from a power distribution bar right next to the unmelted
bar.

A photograph of an aluminium panel with wires, fuse-holders, and
power distribution bar bolted to it. There is a space for an
additional power distribution bar to be bolted on, but it isn't
there.

June 2016

After some flapping about bearings, and hubs, and brakes, and assorted stupidity... I took on the leaking water-pump. How badly was it leaking, you ask?

A dizzying perspective photograph down into the front of the
engine bay, showing the front of the engine with the cooling fan and
belt removed. The water pump has a continuous stream of water pouring
out of the vent hole.

Just a bit.

Unfortunately, someone else had been in here before me, and royally munched on the screws. Two of them came out with an impact, but the others had to have nuts welded onto them. That meant more delay, ordering new screws to go in there! And also a gear puller needed to be procured...

Photograph of the back of the water-pump, on a very cluttered
bench. The screws holding the back of the water pump on have their
slots quite badly mangled.

So, what do you do when you can't proceed? Get the paint out. :D

Photograph of the cooling fan and water pump pulley hanging off a
piece of metal rod clipped to the workbench. The fan is painted bright
red, and the pulley has been painted matte black.

Snazzy!

A few days later, I picked up the water pump, armed with my new gear puller. Promptly split the cast-iron pulley-flange into pieces with the puller. Off to the machine-shop with the pieces, superglued together, to see if he could make a new one. And with that, disassembly resumed.

It exposed ugly

Photograph of the water pump's shaft and inner seal. The seals
are badly degraded, and the whole shaft is covered in muddy brown
water.

A line-up of the various water pump seals and bearings on the
bench. The seals are degraded, and the bearings are full of rust.

Apply one (1) water-pump rebuild kit.

Photograph of the outside of a cardboard parts box. It is red,
with a company logo in the top left corner. The logo has a blue
background, with the white letters Q and H next to a red dragon on a
white square. There is a printed label stuck to the box, reading 'QW
907. Water pump repair kit.'.'></p>

<blockquote>
  <p>It'd be nice if I had more progress to post about, right now. Pulley
   ...flange... bit is still in the machine-shop; they've turned it
   up, but weren't sure on the diameter of the shaft so hadn't drilled
   it yet. Dropped the pump off Monday for them to measure it, and
   apparently it's an obnoxious size that they don't have a reamer
   for.</p>
  
  <p>(It was quite amusing as he mic'd it up, frowned at it, mic'd it
   again, got the calculator out, mic'd it again, went over to the
   conversion chart... And pronounced it to be 35/64ths, so it'll have
   to be bored out rather than simply drilled and reamed. There's
   always something, isn't there?)</p>
</blockquote>

<p>Story of my foxing life!</p>

<p>In related (by way of the calendar) news, check out me knob! And also
that decently solid-looking floor.</p>

<p><img
src=

Aaaaanyway, speaking of solid-looking, um...

Photograph of the front of the truck body, closeup of flaked out paint and puffy rust in the metal.

Photo of the back of the cab, showing a very large repair patch
that has been brazed in and signs of other crude repairs.

Photo of the other side of the cab back, showing another very
large repair patch that has been brazed in; the repair has since
corroded through and there are rust-holes.

And then I leant on the roof while inspecting the (known) rust spots, and there was a crunch.

Photo of the back of the cab roof, where a crusty rust-hole has
been pushed through at a panel edge. There are also further bubbles
underneath the paint indicating additional rust.

Oh buggeration.

Then, on to the ominous sections of the roof. Now, there was a Large tub of P38 in one of the storage lockers when I first investigated the truck; and I think I've discovered where most of it has been used.

Photograph of the roof, showing rust holes and signs of body-filler at panel edges.

Close-ups of the body-filled rust holes around the edge of the roof 'turret'

Some hammering and prying la... is that bloody newspaper?! Why, yes, it is!

Close-up of another filled hole in the roof, again at the edge of
the 'turret', showing scrunched up newspaper underneath the
body-filler.

Let's see what's behind door number 38

Photograph of the back of the roof, again. This time with a
screwdriver wedged in under the edge of a large crust of
body-filler.

(You can tell what's coming, can't you?)

The previously photographed crust of filler has been pried off, revealing pristine sheet metal.

Ha!

An edge-on photograph of the filler crust, showing it to be nearly 6 millimeters thick

Good grief. I'll be honest with you, it doesn't get much better from here, but I suspect you knew that already. :D

For example, I got myself a new toy, a cordless grinder, and gave the truck a bit of a trim. I didn't intend to cut so far, but, uh... Well, y'see, once I started touching the "iffy" bits with a wire wheel, and they started blowing away in the wind...

The rear corner of the truck, now missing the lower rear corner
of the cab where it's been cut off just at the level of the previous
repair patch.

Remember that bit I said didn't seem too bad, earlier? Yeah, well... The repair patch on the offside rear corner of the cab starting
to be peeled back, revealing a crust of rust.

AAAAAAAAA...

The offside-rear repair patch completely peeled off, showing two or three layers of lousy -- and now very corroded -- repairs.

...AAAAAAA...

The offside rear repair patch and first layer of the repairs cut
away, revealing a lousy repair that is just a crude sheet-metal box
built up around the cab crossmember.

...AAAAAAA...

Even more of the previous repair patches cut away, revealing
serious corrosion damage.

...RRGH!

And that's when the whole corner fell off.

ZeroFiveTwo said: You can get counselling for that kind of traumatic experience.