Well, I've had the box of exhaust wadding riding around in the car with me for a week or so now, and still haven't managed to remember to drop it off at the unit. Even after I was there for several hours, doing an oil change on my car.
"Several hours? On an oil change?", I hear you ask. WELL
So I got sod-all done on the truck this weekend, but now my car maintains oil pressure at or above 13psi at idle when warm. And fixed an exhaust leak while I was there. So that's nice; I can now take it to go fail an MOT without worrying about it dropping its guts on lane!
I've also now got, on-hand, a pressure limiting valve so I can hopefully turn down how vicious the brakes are; just waiting on fittings arriving to plumb that in along with a test-point so I can set the limit.) And at some point I should probably make some brackets for that air-tank...
Four big ends and one and a half main journals? I think you might be missing some bearing shells there old chap. Any wonder it was low on oil pressure if it was missing five of them. More seriously, how much of a pain was it to swap the mains with the crank in?
The Skoda 136 is a 3-main block 
But I was
struggling to get the uppers rolled out (Could probably have done it
no trouble if I'd had my needle-nose pliers, but I didn't, so I
couldn't quite get a grip on 'em.) and decided discretion was the
better part of valour; the lower shells would see the most wear, and
they didn't look all that bad, so I figured the uppers would be just
fine thank-you-very-much. Seems to have paid off.
Rolling the bearing shells out with the crank in place isn't too bad, really; I've done it a few times on stuff at work. Common practise when the engine you're working on weighs a lot, and all the bits in it are chock-full of the gravity.
Rods were incredibly easy, and seem to have taken the most wear anyway.
Also, as for others, with your "pff, 13 psi is plenty!": I don't actually know how much oil pressure it did have once hot, other than "definitely not 13psi", especially with the hot days we had sprinkled in this summer. I ordered some fittings -- along with some fittings for the truck -- so I can T the oil pressure switch feed and have both the pressure switch and a pressure sensor; but unfortunately, some kind person along the way clearly has a different idea of what "M16 male-male" is than I do. (Hint: M16 on one end M22 on the other ain't it.)
At least it's not urgent, now I have a stable "yes, there is some" indication.
The truck bits...
Anyway, other bits have arrived so I can now fit up the pressure limiting valve and hopefully reduce how violent the brake servo is being. I think the new system pressure being in the region of 10 bar -- compared to the original setup's 7.5 bar -- and the much more freely-flowing footbrake valve as compared with the tiny little poppet valve originally in the servo, means it's just driving the servo way harder than the original return spring can push back against.
So my hope is, if I limit the pressure available at the feed to the servo side of the footbrake valve, I can run it a bit closer to the original pressures and it'll behave a little nicer. The other thing I need to double-check is alignment of the footbrake valve with the pushrod, and make sure it's not binding in the early travel then -- as one presses harder on the pedal as the brakes don't appear to be doing much -- overcoming the bind very suddenly.
(The sensible thing to do would probably be get a complete replacement TK brake servo with a functioning internal poppet valve, but I've committed now. :D Or should be!)
I've also ordered the material for the outer skin of the silencer, so I am looking forward to getting that in and trying it as an unpacked resonator. It should be quite entertaining.
